One of the oldest city in Europe, Marseille is unlike any other city that I have been to in France. The city is vibrant and colourful with an interesting mixture of old and new. From the maze-like Le Panier, to the crowded Vieux Port and the Corniche, and further extended to the Calanques, the different sides of Marseille amazed me.
Getting there:
By train: I arrived in Marseille by train from Avignon. Marseille Saint Charles station is the main train station in the city.
The grand staircase of Marseille Saint Charles station leading to the city made quite an impression on me upon arrival. If you're carrying big luggage, I would suggest to walk along the path facing the outer road, on one side of the staircase once you come out from the station.
By bus: The bus station is located just next to the main train station.
By car: And being the second most populated city in France, Marseille is well connected to other cities through highways.
By boat: Marseille has a big harbour. You can also arrive by ferry or cruise.
By air: The nearest airport to Marseille is Marseille Provence airport (MRS) is 21km away. The only public transport that will take you from the airport to the city is airport shuttle bus (30 min) to the Marseille Saint Charles station.
Getting around:
The city is well connected by metro, tram and buses. But I got around the city mostly on foot. Having said that, I would still recommend to take a bus to see Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde which is located on the highest natural point of Marseille.
Accomodation:
As I only stayed in Marseille for one night and needed to take an early Flixbus to Nice on the next day, i decided to choose a hotel which is nearby Marseille Saint Charles station - Hotel Terminus Saint-Charles. After getting down from the grand staircase, the 3-star hotel is located just across the road.
The reception and check-in area of Hotel Terminus Saint-Charles. A night stay cost about EUR 61.
What to see:
1) Porte d'Aix
Surprise, surprise. Marseille also has a triumphal arch, although not as famous as the one in Paris. It marks the old entry point to the city on the road from Aix-en-Provence. It is within walking distance from Marseille Saint Charles station, so it was the first place I visited in Marseille.
On the way to Porte d'Aix, I saw many graffitis on walls and roller shutters of shops. But fear not, the city is still quite safe to roam about if you use your common senses eg. not to venture into dark alleys.
2) Le Panier
Le Panier is the oldest part of the city. In the heart of Le Panier, you can visit La Vielle Charite which is now a museum and cultural centre. Unfortunately, it was not open during my visit.
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The street art in Le Panier are hidden gems. It really made my day to try to find them all while in the area.
The streets are so colourful and full of wonderful surprises. I was immediately in love with this area. If you love street art, don't miss Cours Julien! I did not have time to visit it, but a quick search on internet will show how lovely is the area.
3) Marseille Cathedral
Marseille Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral and a national monument of France. It was under some renovation works during my visit in September 2019.
4) MUCEM and Fort Saint-Jean
The various buildings while walking towards Fort Saint-Jean from Marseille Cathedral.
Getting to MUCEM / Fort Saint-Jean:
1) Metro - nearest station is Vieux-Port or Joliette stop (approx. 10-min walk)
2) Bus - Line 82/82s, 60 and 49 (Littoral Major or Fort Saint-Jean stop)
3) Tram Line T2 - Dames ou Joliette stop (approx. 10-15 min walk)
Fort Saint-Jean was built to defend the port of Marseille in 1660. Today the fort is one of the most visited monuments in Marseille.
To enter the premise, you need to purchase an entry ticket to access to all the exhibitions. Ticket price is EUR 11 (full), EUR 7.50 (reduced) and EUR 18 (family pass).
The museum is open daily except Tuesday. It is open from 10am. The closing times differs depending on the season.
* Please note that the MUCEM is currently closed from 29 October 2020 until further notice.
In 2013, the fort became part of Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisation (MUCEM). It has also been linked by two foot-bridges, one to the historical district Le Panier and another to MUCEM.
This is the foot-bridge which connects to MUCEM.
The roof of MUCEM has resting area for visitors.
Another footbridge which connects to Le Panier. This is the way I exited the fort.
On the other end of the footbridge is Saint-Lauren Church.
From the hill, I walked down to the port area.
The station of Le Petite Train at the port. Adult fare is EUR 8. 2 circuits are available, depending where you want to go.
5) Vieux Port
The Town Hall of Marseille.
Vieux Port is the old port of Marseille. Up until the 1850's, the old port was the city's only port. It surrounds a yacht marina.
Savon de Marseille (soap) is a popular souvenir to bring home.
You can also visit the Le Musee du Savon (Museum of Soap) if you're interested in the process of soap making.
Vieux Port metro station has a really cool mirror-like ceiling.
5) Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde
Afterwards, I took Bus 60 to go to Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde. Above is the bus route of bus 60.
Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde is the iconic city symbol of Marseille. Built on the natural highest point, it has the best viewpoint overlooking the city. The bell tower has a large statue of Virgin Mary in bronze with gold leaf on top of it.
Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde consists of two parts, a vaulted low church with a crypt and a high church. This is the lower church.
This is the high church of Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde.
6) Calanques
I decided to join a boat tour to Calanques. Calanques is a series of miniature fjords with beautiful blue sea and lime stone cliffs. The tour I joined is called Essential of Calanques which lasted for about 2 hours and 15 minutes. It cost about EUR 24 per adult, EUR 22 per student/disabled/teen (13-18 years) and EUR 19 for child (4-12 years). Child under 4 years old travel for free but they do need a ticket.
Palais du Pharo was built by Napoleon III to have a footing in Marseille. He never came there and at his death, the empress Eugenie gave it to the city.
Boat leaving the Marseille port.
The tour only took me to the first six calanques. To visit the entire National Park and see 12 calanques, you will need to join Integral of the Calanques tour (3h15m).
7) Palais Longchamp
Palais Longchamp is a monument which houses Musee des Beaux-Arts in its east wing and Museum d'Histoire Naturelle in its west wing. The sculptures of four bulls and three women are at the summit of the grand fountain. The park also contained a 19th century zoo which was closed in 1987 but it is still possible to see the picturesque buildings of the zoo. It is well worth a visit to see its beautiful fountain.
What/Where to Eat
Unsurprisingly, Marseille cuisine is centered around fish and seafood. The must-try dish is La Bouillabaisse - a fish based soup served with bread and a garlic-saffron sauce. There are plenty of restaurants at Vieux Port.
Map of Marseille with places of attraction marked.
Overall, I find Marseille an interesting city with its own unique identity. I hope this posting will help you in planning a trip to Marseille.
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