SRI LANKA - Polonnaruwa

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, used to be the capital city of Sri Lanka during the 11th century. In addition to the Brahmanic monuments built by the Cholas, Polonnaruwa is also home to the ruins of the fabulous garden city created by King Parakramabahu I.


Arrived at the Bandaranaike International Airport (BIA) or better known as Colombo International Airport early in the morning for my onward trip to Polonnaruwa.

AirAsia used to fly to Sri Lanka, but has since suspended the flight in February 2013. Don’t worry, Tiger Airways is another low cost airline flying to Colombo. Or you can always opt for the full fledged carrier, SriLankan Airlines or Malaysia Airline.


This year, I have no plans for an overseas trip. So I’m going to write about my previous trips. Before I went to the United States in 2012, I went to Sri Lanka in 2011.


When my beau suggested Sri Lanka for our year end trip, I was like …..'what is there to see in Sri Lanka?' Even my friend were asking ‘Isn't there an ongoing civil war in Sri Lanka?’


The Sri Lankan Civil War lasted from 1983 till 2009 with an estimated of 80,000 to 100,000 people killed during the war. The Liberation Tigers of Tamil Ealam or better known as the Tamil Tigers (a terrorist organisation) was finally defeated by the Sri Lankan military after 26 years.


With a total economic cost estimated at USD 200 billion, Sri Lanka became the first country in the modern world to eradicate terrorism on its soil.  


Buddhism is the dominant religion of Sri Lanka with more than 70% of the country’s population as followers.


With the end of the Sri Lankan Civil War, Sri Lanka is now a safe country and the tourism industry is thriving.


After a 4 hours drive, I arrived at Polonnaruwa. Walked around Polonnaruwa Topa Wewa Lake to stretch my leg after a long journey.


Locals having a dip at the lake. It really was a hot day.


Polonnaruwa was declared the capital city by King Vijayabahu I in 1070 after he defeated the Chola invaders.


While Vijayabahu’s victory and shifting of kingdoms to Polonnaruwa is considered important in Sri Lankan history, it is King Parakramabahu I who exacted the most significance on the kingdom. Most of buildings in Polonnaruwa were constructed during the reign of Parakramabahu.


Visitors using a book as a guide around the area. The ruins in Polonnaruwa are quite near to each other and you can visit them quite easily. As for me, I engaged the services of a guide to bring us around.


Raja Sabhawa (Counsel Chamber) also known as the Audience Hall, was where the Kings of Polonnaruwa used it to summon the nobles of the kingdom and to meet with the emissaries from foreign rulers.


During the reign of Parakramabahu I also known as Parakramabahu the Great, Sri Lanka was at the height of its power. His construction works made up a significant chunk of the material history of Sri Lanka.


Under Parakramabahu reign, trade and agriculture flourished and it was under his patronage that an irrigation system which still exists today, was constructed.


Sad to say, after Parakramabahu’s death, the chronic instability undid many of his accomplishments and developed into a crisis that Sri Lanka never recovered from.


Sculptured lion seated at the top of the steps leading into the hall symbolising the royal power.


Me and my beau at the Audience Hall.


The friendly Polonnaruwa guide bringing us around. 


The guide even made me a bracelet. How sweet!


The Kamura Pokuna, also known as the Royal Bathing Pool.


Water was fed from the streams which runs through the palace grounds.


We’re at the Royal Palace where it was once the grand residence of Parakramabahu I.


The Royal Palace was a massive seven storey high structure made of wood and stone. What remains now are the ruins of the lower wall. 


Only parts of the three floors remain as ruins today. The Parakamabahu Palace was destroyed and burned by the Indian invaders.


There palace used to have 1,000 rooms whereby some can still be seen today.


The Shiva Devalaya, built entirely of stone, is a Hindu Temple.


Believed to be built by the Cholas (South Indian invaders), this temple is dedicated to the Hindu God ‘Shiva’.


The stone of Shiva Lingam can still be seen inside the temple and is still being worshipped by the Hindus


The lingam and yoni has often been interpreted to represent the sexual organs. Even my guide told us, ‘Yes, that’s a penis’.


I’m now at the Quadrangle which stands within its own rectangular of walls, guarding the richest ancient buildings of Sri Lanka. The building at the background is Thuparama, the only building to survive with its roof still in place. 


Thuparama is the oldest and best preserved ancient building in Polonnaruwa which was built during the reign of King Vijayabahu I. The inner chamber of the shrine houses a number of Buddha statues.


Some of the ruins are in a pretty bad shape with only parts of the wall and columns still standing.


The ancient structure behind me is the Polonnaruwa Vatadage, believed to be built during the reign of Parakramabahu I to hold the tooth relic of Buddha. The tooth relic is now deposited in the Sacred Temple of Tooth in Kandy.


Considered the centrepiece of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Polonnaruwa Vatadage is the most famous and vatadage (only 10 now remaining) in Sri Lanka


There are four entrance to the central dagoba, each presided over by a seated Buddha and in the centre of Polonnaruwa Vatadage, behind the statues, is a small brick stupa in which the Tooth Relic was once enshrined. You have to take off your shoes if you plan to walk around the Vatadage.  


The sandakada pahana (moonstone) and two murugalas (guardstone) at the entrance, were commonly placed at entrances of monastic buildings of ancient Sri Lanka. The sandakada pahana depict the cycle of Samsara in Buddhism.


The Sath Mahal Prasada.


So many ruins to see in one compact area. Time to see the other areas of Polonnaruwa.


View of ruins at Quadrangle.


Rankoth Vehera Stupa is an enormous stupa measuring at 175m in diameter and 55m high.


The ever cheerful guide wanting to be seen in the photograph.


One of the main highlights of Polonnaruwa is Gal Vihara. Gal Vihara means Stone Temple in Sinhala. It is here that Parakramabahu I held a congregation of monks to purify the Buddhist priesthood and later drew up a code of conduct for them.


There are four images of Buddha here. This seated Buddha is approximately 4.6m high.


The seating position depicts the dhyana mudra in which the right hand is placed above the left, with the palms facing upwards and the fingers extended. It is believed that this is the position that Buddha was sitting while meditating.  


The seat was carved in a shape of a lotus flower with the base decorated with carvings of flowers and lions.


The other seated Buddha is only 1.40m high.



The other two Buddha images are the standing and reclining Buddha.



The standing statue of Buddha is 6.93m tall and shaped with its back leaning in a relaxed manner with eyes closed and arms folded across its chest.


The reclining image of Buddha depicts the Buddha’s parinirvana, which has led some to believe that the standing statue is not Buddha but Ananda, a devoted disciple of Buddha, who is lamenting the Buddha’s demise at his deathbed.

But the features on the statue which is standing on a double pedestal statue are unmistakable signs that make scholars conclude the statue is that of Buddha himself.


The reclining Buddha measures 14.12m long.


Opposite the images of Buddha, there is a small hill where you can get a better view of the temple.


Visitors to the Gal Vihara admiring the statues on the higher ground.


Considered to be among the best example of rock carving and sculpting arts of ancient Sinhalese, the four statue of Buddha have been carved on a single, large granite rock, measuring 27m in length and 10m in height.  


Well, the statues were not as large as I expected but at least they are well preserved


A peculiar looking building.



It is actually one of the many crematory stupas loacted around Alahana Parivena.


The Lankatilaka Vihara was a large sacred building housing images of Buddha. An impressive 14m high sculpture of Buddha remains in Lankatilaka, albeit without its head.


Two massive walls, each measuring 4m thick and 17m high, form a narrow aisle leading to the giant figure of Buddha.


The internal side of the walls are adorned with murals while the external side are adorned with reliefs of architecture subjects.


The lotus pond at Polonnaruwa was the last attraction I visited before making a move.


Saw a replica of Avukana Buddha statue on the way back to the hotel. The original statue which dates back to the 5th century is located in Anuradhapura.


Of course I stopped here for some photographs.


The King Coconut is sold at the sides of the street throughout the island and it's cheap, costing no more than US$ 0.30.


A refreshing drink after a day of travelling. However, the coconut juice is not as sweet as those in Malaysia or Thailand. 


 I was completely worn out but satisfied after exploring the great ancient Sri Lankan architecture at Polonnaruwa. There will be more walking the next day at the massive rock fortress at Sigiriya.



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