[MOROCCO] A Simple Guide to Fez

09:53 Travel Bunny 0 Comments

Fez, the medieval capital of Morocco, is home to the world's oldest university, the University of al-Qarawiyyin. This ancient walled city is well worth a visit in Northern Morocco. Its location is also strategic if you plan to visit Chefchaouen in the north or join a tour into the Sahara Desert.

Getting in:

1) By plane: I flew in from Lisbon by Air Portugal and arrived at Fez Saiss Airport. The flight duration is about two hours. Budget airlines such as Ryanair and Vueling offer flights from major European cities to Fez. From the airport, I arranged a pick up with the guest house that I would be staying in Fez. 

2) By train: Fez has a train station with regular train service to other cities in Morocco such as Casablanca, Tangier and Marrakesh. 

3) By bus: Fez is also well connected to other cities in Morocco by bus. There are two local bus stations in Fez, one is located nearby the Medina (old city) and the other is the CTM bus station in the new part of the city. 

Getting Around:

The best way to explore the walled Medina is on foot. The guest house that I was staying is very near to Bab Boujloud, also known as the Blue Gate. So this was my gateway to explore the Medina. To be honest, I didn't spend much time in Fez although I stayed for two nights in Fez. The first day I arrived in Fez was around 4pm. I did a day trip to Chefchaouen on the next day. I mostly spent the nights to have dinner in Fez and explore the Medina on foot. 

Map of Fez. Location of Dar Lala Wafae is shown in the orange box.

Accommodation:

I stayed at Dar Lala Wafae in a quiet lane near the Medina. Each room has a private bathroom. My room had a double bed and a single bed, which is just nice for us. The room cost me EUR 48 for two nights back in 2019, which is a bargain for its unbeatable location. You can book it on Booking.com, Hotels.com and Booked.net

I enjoyed the breakfast served at the terrace. The breakfast was freshly prepared everyday and it was good.

What to see/do:

The Medina (old city) is a walled city. There are a few gates to enter the Medina. 

Photo above is Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate) which is easily recognized by its blue tiles. 

The Medina was really busy at night. It is a good place to eat and shop.

Bou Inania Madrasa is a 14th century madrasa (Islamic learning centre). Unlike other madrasa which usually has a small prayer room, this madrasa has a full mosque adjoining to it with its minaret overlooking the street, Talaa Kbira. It is just 2-minute walk from the Blue Gate. Its interior courtyard has elaborate tilework of zellij, carved plaster panels and beautiful cedar lattice screens. Unfortunately it was closed at night. It only opens 9am - 6pm daily from Saturday to Thursday. The entrance fee is about 20 dirhams.

Al-Attarine Madrasa is another famous madrasa in Fez. It is near the Qarawiyyin Mosque. The madrasa took its name from Souk Al-Attarine, the spice and perfume market. It was closed at night but the Qarawiyyin Mosque still opens. It opens from 8am - 6pm daily. The entrance fee is about 20 dirhams.

Borj Nord is a fortress built in 1582 which incorporated European-style in military architecture. It is now a museum. It opens from 9am - 1pm & 2pm - 5pm, closed on Monday and Friday. The entrance fee is about 20 dirhams.

View of Fez from the top of a hill outside the Medina during sunrise.

Fez is also famous for its tannery. We didn't have time to visit Chouara Tannery (the largest tannery in the city and one of the oldest) as we left Fez in early morning to join the Sahara Desert tour. It is a pity since the photos look amazing when I search online.

What/Where to eat:

There are plenty of restaurants in the Medina. I chose to have my dinner at a restaurant overlooking the Blue Gate. I ordered a Tagine (cooked meat in earthenware pot) and a Harira (Moroccan soup). For the drinks, I ordered dates drink. Overall, it was a satisficing meal.

Safety Tips in Fez:

Something unpleasant happened in Fez. On my first night in Fez, I was exhausted and chose to stay in the guest house with my child, while my husband explored the Medina on his own. A "friendly" local followed him around when my husband was looking around Qarawiyyin Mosque. He claimed to be a student and offered my husband to be his "free" guide. My husband refused his offer but he was persistent. So my husband ended up chatting with him for a while. Before my husband left the place, the man insisted that my husband should pay him for his service for showing him around. It was late at night and that man seemed to have some friends hanging around. So for safety reasons, my husband paid him for about 130 dirhams (about USD 13) which was all his had in his wallet at that moment. Fortunately, my husband didn't bring much cash, only some small change. More importantly, nothing worse happened to him that night.

Conclusion:

I would suggest to spend at least one full day in Fez to fully discover its charm. But do remain vigilant and watch out for scammers throughout your entire journey in Morocco. Do NOT trust any locals offering "free" service or you'll ended up paying more than what you bargained. If you're booking a tour, make sure that you book from a reputable travel agency with good testimonies.