[MALAYSIA] PERAK - A Cultural and Foodie Road Trip to Sitiawan

08:09 Travel Bunny 0 Comments


Often affectionately dubbed as "Little Fuzhou," Sitiawan was the town that 363 Christian pioneers from the Fujian province of China arrived to start anew in 1903. The town is therefore famous for its Fuzhou heritage and authentic Fuzhou cuisine.

Here’s how I plan my road trip to Sitiawan:
Day 1 KL - Sitiawan
Departure from Kuala Lumpur - Lunch at Kampung Koh Noodle Store - Lorong Budaya Setia Kawan - Tua Pek Kong Temple - Sitiawan Settlement Museum - Dinner at Lido Seafood Restaurant - check-in The Orient Star Resort Lumut
 
Day 2 Pangkor Island

Day 3 Sitiawan
Ferry to Lumut Jetty - Lunch (claypot Ang Jiu Mi Shua) at Seng Jee Chan - Buy Gong Pian at Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian - rest and relax at The Orient Star Resort Lumut

Day 4  Sitiawan - KL
Buffet breakfast at hotel - Buy Mee Shua at Hock Chew So Mee Shua Konpian - Lunch at Villa Seafood Restaurant - Buy Gong Pian again at Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian - back to Kuala Lumpur

Day 1

Kampung Koh Noodle Store

The drive from Kuala Lumpur to Sitiawan takes about 3 hours. Our journey began with lunch at Kampung Koh Noodle Store in Sitiawan. You can’t say you’ve been to Sitiawan without trying the iconic Kampung Koh chili sauce with a bowl of noodles, priced around RM6 - RM7.50 per bowl. Their menu of noodles is quite extensive, from simple dry or soup noodles, prawn noodles, Loh Mee, Loh Laksa, laksa, curry noddles, Pan Mee, Yee Mee, Indian noodles, wanton noodles, Mee Kuay to Special Hock Chew dish. The meal is simple and satisfying.

Kampung Koh Noodle Store
Hours: 6:00 AM – 8:30 PM (Closed on Thursday and Saturdays)

Lorong Budaya Setia Kawan

After lunch, we wandered through Lorong Budaya Setia Kawan for some street art. A photo op in front of the Setia Kawan stone and two elephant statues is a must. Long ago, the area was known as Kampung Gajah Mati (Dead Elephant Village). According to local folklore, two elephants were crossing a river when one of them got stuck in the deep mud. As the tide of the river began to surge, the trapped elephant was unable to free itself. The second elephant refused to abandon its companion, despite the rising water. It stayed by its friend's side until the river overwhelmed them both, and they drowned together. This act of unwavering loyalty deeply moved the local villagers. In 1886, the village faced a severe smallpox outbreak. The village head, Mohd Ali, felt that the name "Gajah Mati" was unlucky and carried a heavy, morbid energy. He wrote to the British Resident of Perak at the time, Sir Hugh Low, requesting a name change. He proposed Setia Kawan (meaning "Loyal Friend") to honor the legendary devotion of the two elephants. The request was granted, and over time, the name was shortened to the modern-day Sitiawan.

While Sitiawan as a whole has grown into a bustling district, Kampong Koh remains the primary site where the area's unique Fuzhou heritage began. The Fuzhou Christians who came from Fujian were led by three Christian missionaries: Rev. Dr. H.L.E. Luering (a German Methodist), Rev. Ling Ching Mi, and Rev. Dr. Huang Pau Seng. Kampong Koh is also notable as the birthplace of Chin Peng. He was the Secretary-General of the Communist Party of Malaya and a key figure during the Malayan Emergency.

This vibrant cultural alley is filled with colorful murals depicting the daily life, history, and traditions of the Sitiawan people. 

The British colonial government originally brought the Chinese settlers in to start a rice-planting colony. However, the land proved unsuitable for paddy. Facing failure with rice, the settlers eventually switched to rubber, which was just beginning to boom. A metal press that was used to turn the latex into dried rubber sheets is displayed here.

The term "Three Knives" (三把刀) refers to the three traditional trades that the early Fuzhou immigrants brought with them when they settled in Sitiawan. They are the kitchen knife (Chef/Restaurateur), barber’s razor (Hairdresser) and tailor’s scissors (Tailor).

The street art also features Fuzhou local cuisine such as Ang Jiu Mee Sua, Gong Pian and Kampung Koh garlic-chili sauce.

Tua Pek Kong Temple

After that we visited the magnificent Tua Pek Kong Temple, which is famous for its tallest deity statues facing the sea. Located right by the coast, it features dozens of massive, intricately carved white statues, including a 48-foot tall Tua Pek Kong. 

The giant dragon and the depiction of hell are among the most famous and visually striking features of the complex. The dragon isn't just a statue; it’s a walk-through tunnel that serves as a symbolic rite of passage. Visitors enter through the dragon’s wide-open mouth. As you walk through the "belly" of the dragon, the walls are lined with intricate murals and dioramas depicting the Ten Chambers of Hell. The punishments are depicted with graphic details such as liars having their tongues pulled out and etc.

Tua Pek Kong Temple
Hours: 7:00 AM – 10:30 PM

Sitiawan Settlement Museum

For history buffs, the Sitiawan Settlement Museum offers a touching look at the area’s Fuzhou roots. Housed in an old missionary building, this museum tells the story of the Fuzhou Christians who migrated from China in 1903. It is filled with vintage artifacts, old photographs, and personal stories that give you a deep appreciation for the town’s roots.

Pioneer Methodist Church besides the museum was originally built in 1905 (and rebuilt in 1927). This is the spiritual center of the original Fuzhou community.

Sitiawan Settlement Museum
Hours: Tue–Sat (10 AM – 5 PM), Sun (2 PM – 5 PM), Closed Mondays.

Lido Seafood Restaurant

Dinner was a grand affair at Lido Seafood Restaurant. This is the place to try authentic Fuzhou dishes like Sweet and Sour Fish Maw, fried oyster omelette and Red Yeast Wine Chicken.  
Hours: 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM, 5:00 PM – 9:30 PM

We ended the day by checking into The Orient Star Resort in Lumut. The sunset view on the balcony marks the perfect end to our day.

Day 2: 

We spent the entire second day exploring Pangkor Island and stayed overnight there. It is a refreshing change of pace from the mainland. Click here for further reading on my post on Pangkor Island.

Day 3: 

After taking the ferry back to Lumut Jetty, it’s time to continue our food adventure in Sitiawan.

Seng Jee Chan

For lunch, we sought out Seng Jee Chan for their signature Claypot Ang Jiu Mi Shua (Red Yeast Wine Rice Vermicelli). This was the highlight of the day. Their Claypot Ang Jiu Mi Shua (Rice Wine Noodles) is legendary. The broth is rich with red yeast wine and ginger, served with tender chicken. It’s a warming, soulful dish that defines Sitiawan cuisine. Their Ang Jiu fried pork rib is equally excellent.

Seng Jee Chan
Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM (Closed Wednesdays)

Cheong Cia Gong Pian

No trip is complete without Cheong Cia Gong Pian. It is the most famous biscuit shop in town. There is almost always a queue at the shop. These onion-filled biscuits are baked in a traditional charcoal oven. It is best to eat them while they’re hot and crispy! The biscuit was so good that we decided to go back and buy more on the next day.

Go early! Take note that they’re closed for mid-day break. And be prepared to wait for 30 to 45 minutes when they sell out and need to make a fresh batch.

Cheong Cia Gong Pian
Hours: 9:30 AM – 12:00 PM & 2:00 PM - 5:00 PM (Closed Sundays)

We spent the rest of the afternoon in "slow mode," lounging by the pool at The Orient Star Resort. Take note that swimming pool is opened from 7am till 7pm.

Day 4: 

Spent some time at the beach in the morning. We made a few final stops to load up on souvenirs before driving back to Kuala Lumpur.

Hock Chew So Mee Shua Konpian

We stopped at Hock Chew So Mee Shua Konpian (7:30 AM – 5:10 PM) to bring the taste of Sitiawan home such as homemade Mee Shua, Kampung Koh chili sauce and red yeast wine. If you are lucky, you can see the long, thin noodles hanging out to dry in the sun. 

Villa Seafood Restaurant

For our final meal, we headed to Villa Seafood Restaurant. It’s the perfect place for a final celebratory feast before heading back to the city.
Hours: 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM

One last stop at Cheong Cia Gong Pian again before heading back to Kuala Lumpur.

With a full stomach and a car full of Gong Pian and Mee Shua, it’s time for the drive back to Kuala Lumpur. Until next time, Sitiawan!

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